Travel Journal: Day 1 and Day 18
The bookends of my Southeast Asia sojourn were spent in the quaint former Portuguese colony of Macau.
Compared to most Asian mega-cities [especially neighboring Hong Kong] it is small and not usually on backpackers' itineraries, but the fusion of Portuguese and Chinese cultures imparts voluminous character in a compact package. Narrow European-style cobblestone streets and baroque architecture contrast with solemn Chinese temples and fluorescent casinos. Signs are in Portuguese and Cantonese but everyone understands English. The MOP [currency] is worthless. Taxis won't pick you up at the airport or take you where you need to go. Seemingly ultra-modern and backwater at the same time.
As gambling capital of the world and so-called"Monte Carlo of the Orient", much of the city is one giant casino-mall. Vegas without the shows. Coutour retail. Self-aware sculptures. Ostentatiously dressed gangster elite. Loud colors and bright sounds. The industry that pays the bills dominates the skylines. Which is, after all, why my brother lives there. I, however, am not fond of losing money I don't have [and am not historically lucky] so am grateful there is more than never-ending grids of slot machines and private betting clubs.
The geography of the city is not intuitive: a combination of peninsula and islands, barely distinguishable from mainland China, connected by bridges and reclaimed land. Some former colonial waterfront property is now decidedly landlocked. Would be difficult to navigate if not for my resident tour guides [my brother and sister-in-law] who have had a few years to hone self-guided strolls maximizing photo-ops and wanton consumption of local delicacies. They were able to take me beyond the congested thoroughfares of the historic center to areas that pedestrians don't frequent. A rescue-cat enclave in a former drug rehabilitation center. A secluded park for the detonation of legally-obtained-but-still-clandestine fireworks. Tramping past secure compounds of Macanese [and possible Triad] elite to reach hilltop chapels for vistas of the Space-Needle-referential Macau Tower. A legitimate Middle-Ages castle-turned-resort with strong drinks but sagging standing in the worldwide castle rankings [you know, of course there are such things].
I cannot begin to retrace our steps, so I will refer to the named stops, knowing that half the story is missing in those wandering lanes.
Sites
- Taipa
Taipa 氹仔
The island off the main peninsula where the international airport is located [a tiny but cost-efficient and hassle-free way to fly in and out of Asia]. Rows of light green pastel houses line a former sea wall on the Avenida da Praia. Lanterns and cobblestones abound. Chinese school girls modelling for glamour shots in front of adorable churches and twisty trees, and somewhere, along an old stone wall with a view of the water and distant casinos, the spot where my brother proposed to his wife.
Cotai Strip 路氹
Reclaimed land between the islands of Taipa and Coloane, and location of a Vegas-style row of mega-casinos, often larger iterations of their American predecessors. Another Venetian with too-clean-to-believe indoor canals and gondolas. The sparkling half-scale Eiffel Tower at the Parisian, a copy of a copy [Paris Las Vegas]. A Bellagio-style "performance lake" of dancing spouts at the Wynn Palace. One of the last works of the influential Zaha Hadid, a monstrous hotel tower with exposed "exoskeleton" and gaping central black hole [possibly for dragons?]. My brother's project, the soon-to-open MGM Cotai, its second site in Macau. Miles of indoor shopping malls to feed the rampant consumerism and avoid any contact with the ponderous humidity. [see also: Travel Hair]
Coloane Village 路環
On the smaller island south of Taipa, a quiet fishing village with abandoned shipyards, Buddhist temples, winding footpaths, seaside promenades, and a tucked-away locals-only shanty that serves fried pork chops on Portuguese buns.
Seac Pai Van Park 石排灣郊野公園
Lush green mini-mountain park on Coloane with hiking trails, classic Chinese gate and a tiny zoo showcasing pandas [giant and red] perfecting the art of the sprawl. Home to a particular howling monkey that can be heard echoing through apartment complexes in the early mornings.
Centro Histórico de Macau 澳門歷史城區
On the main peninsula, the UNESCO historic center of Macau is a collection of kitschy patterned [stripes! crabs! anchors!] cobblestone pedestrian squares connecting Portuguese state buildings, Buddhist temples, crumbling Catholic churches, an ancient fort and isolated pieces of oyster-shell-laden city wall. Crowded thoroughfares of tourists and vendors adorned with cartoonish and colorful Lunar New Year decor. The most vibrant part of an otherwise sleepy city.
- St. Paul's Ruins and serious travel hair
Ruins of St. Paul's 大三巴牌坊
Facade of a 17th century Catholic church [that never quite achieved Cathedral status] with intense Jesuit-Chinese carvings including the Virgin Mary stepping on a seven-headed dragon and Jesus fighting Death. Crawling at all hours with tourists and selfie-sticks.
Igreja de São Domingos 玫瑰堂
St. Dominic's church, Baroque chapel c. 1587 in saturated yellow and green, scene of a murder-at-the-altar political dispute between Spain and Portugal in 1644.
Capela de S. Miguel Arcanjo 圣弥额尔小堂
I haven't been to this many churches in long time, but this distractingly scenic pastel green chapel boasted a hillside garden cemetery with stray cats lolling on a mix of Portuguese and Chinese tombs. I had to go.
- Templo de A-ma
Templo de A-Má 媽閣廟
Supposed basis of the name Macau, a misinterpretation of "A-Ma-Gau", in reference to a Chinese Sea Goddess. Very old temple complex with components of Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. Clouds of incense and pilgrims climbing the deferential path to the highest temple up stairs and poetry carved into the bedrock.
Eats
The longstanding marriage of Eastern and Western cultures make the Macau food scene quite diverse: ultra-refined Chinese pastries, rustic Portuguese seafood, Macanese fusion items, plus all the street food classics and open air markets. How I fit into my clothes by the end of this trip is beyond me, but the quality of everything I tasted was extremely high [and affordable]. I tried to recount my favorite local fare below, not including the endlessly fresh juices, young coconuts, tropical salads and varietals of choy that balanced the sweet salty savory snacks.
- sweet custard bun disguised as mushroom - dim sum at its finest
Dim Sum at the Wing Lei Palace [Wynn Cotai]
High-end dim sum on the Cotai Strip with steamy buns, dainty dumplings, tea and immaculate service under a giant chandelier with dancing fountains outside. Nothing like constant attention when you're freshly jet-lagged and handling not one, but two sets of chop sticks. Sister restaurant to the Michelin-starred Wing Lei at the main Wynn on the peninsula and second best place to have Char Siu Bao (BBQ pork bun) in Macau. Also a magnificent mirrored bathroom the size of a modest apartment.
Fried Pork Chop bun at a dive in Coloane Village
Just like it sounds - a giant pork chop on a Portuguese baguette. Plus or minus hot sauce. Have to avoid bone. I feel like I out-bourdained Anthony Bourdain with this crumbly, drippy, unpretentious, choke-hazard of sandwich served in the equally humble setting of communal benches in a steel shanty behind abandoned shipyards. [He dined at a more tourist-accessible franchise in Taipa].
Egg Tart at Lord Stow's Bakery
A semi-modern classic [since 1989] pocket-sized snack with soft eggy center and flakey pastry crust that seems like the number one export of Macau when you board a plane with duty-free shoppers. You can order one or six or twelve. No one is judging.
- high volume egg tarts
Char Siu Bao [BBQ pork bun] at Tim Ho Wan
The number one place to have the bun in Macau, is a Taiwanese chain restaurant that opened a location in the upscale faux outdoor market of the Broadway casino. Deceptively simple dessert pastry with sweetly sauced pork inside. That crusty caramelization on the dough alone makes a macro photographer weep.
Xiao Long Bao [Soup Dumplings] at Nan Xiang
Another of my recent cravings, original to Shanghai but also featured in the pseudo-street-food-alley. This time I was taught the proper way to consume the delicate but dangerous soup-filled pockets without completely annihilating your tastebuds and soft palate for the rest of the night, namely biting the top and sipping the soup slowly, allowing steam to escape and the rest of the dumpling to cool before consuming. There is also a comically large dumpling the size of your bowl that comes with it's own straw embedded.
Dessert Soup at Hang Heong Un
There is an untapped market in hot liquid desserts. A variety of soup bases (nut milk, egg or coconut) combined and/or topped with nuts and lotus seeds for an added texture. Warms the bones and without feeling as heavy or rich as most desserts. Especially pertinent when one lives in a perennially cool and damp climate.
Sangria, seafood and Portuguese bread at Porco Preto
After 18 days of fresh produce and rice-based meals I almost considered myself weaned off of gluten, until I saw their freshly baked loaf and butter, which I promptly inhaled and swore never to hate on bread again. Coupled with the best octopus I've ever tasted [or perhaps the only correctly cooked, non-rubbery preparation], mussels and a pitcher of sangria, one of the best meals in Macau. Perhaps those 6 years in Rhode Island did leave a lasting impression.
Chinese New Year dumplings
I would be remiss if I didn't also wax poetic on my sister-in-law's hand-crafted dumplings, similar to the ones I'd goaded her into making for our American Thanksgiving, especially potent and comforting after weeks of dining out. Pairs nicely with a hand-imported rye Manhattan.
Despite the overarching gambling facade, I was charmed by the city. Bold flavors, familiar and foreign. Pastels and primary colors. Nonchalant pandas. Pirates and sea goddesses. Emergency carbs. Cat sanctuaries, official and haunted. If I had to choose, I would revisit Macau over Hong Kong for at least for a 72-hour layover [more on that later but spoiler alert: I hate crowds! and the weather is against me!].
Next stop: Cambodia.
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